27 DAYS IN ALASKA

I just came back from an awesome trip to AK where I had the chance to spend

27 days in one of the most beautiful places on Earth. This is my six trip/ expedition 

on the range and every time I had the chance to see and climb in new places/ Mountains.

My original schedule consisted on teaching a Alpine seminar for 10 days for RMI.

After that I will be working for Skywardmountaineering where I will be assisting my good friend and mentor Vince Anderson guiding the North Buttress of MT Hunter via the Moonflower route.

Guiding this kind of objective it is as advance as guiding can get. It has never been guided before.

 After that I will be having about 10 days of personal guiding where I will be climbing 

some of the classics and hopefully be able to climb new routes. And off course the weather will determine how the plans will unfold. In the end of this trip I end up climbing  over 40 guide book pitches from ice to rock and mixed terrain. 

Everything start in Seattle where we ( Jason, gilbert and I )  flew to Anchorage. For this kind of trips is not such of thing as light weight traveling.

Once in Talkeetna it was time to pack and get ready to flight to the glacier. This little town it is one of my favorite to hang out. People from over the world come here to go climbing. From Talkeetna is where the flying happens to the range.  

The flying to the glacier is one of the coolest things about climbing in the range. For about 1 hour you get to fly at the same level or lower than the peaks. The landing can be little bumpy especially if it is fresh snow. This Bush pilots are incredible !!!!!!   We flew to the base camp of Denali where the view is incredible. A 360 degree of mind blowing peaks lay all around you.   

After our awesome flying it was time to set up camp. Here is where I will be leaving for the next month. Snow camping is pretty cool you can build all kinds of cool structures for the tent, cook tent, bathroom and storage unit.

This two great friends  Ann Gilbert and Jason are ones that I end up working with. Super great times with them. We had 6 super fun climbers in our seminar where we able to teach them all about expedition and alpine climbing that we could. from setting camp, to avalanche awernes to rescue and high altitude climbing, this 10 day seminar it was a great intro for any future expeditions.

Thank you all for the great times.     

In our seminar our first objective was the radio control tower.

This peak lays just behine the base camp. The climb it is very cool with a great views from the top including a first class view of the North buttress of MT Hunter. 

It was climbing time for us. All the group had a great learning experience. Here we put all our teaching and they put all the learning together for us to climb a cool peak in the Alaska range.   

10 days went pretty quick and the seminar was over. The group went home and I stay there to meet  my good friend and mentor Vince Anderson with him was Mark a super strong climber who been climbing with Skywardmountaineering for awhile. Their main mission was to climb the North buttress of MT Hunter AK grade 6, AI 6, M7. Thos route it has never been guided or atemptet to be guide. Since they end up getting stuck in Talkeetna for 3 days due bad weather, only left them with 4 days to make this happen, first we need it to go for a climb to warm up before go tackle the big one.    

Once Vince and Mark all setup in camp it was time for us to head and start climbing. Our first objective was the SW ridge of Franciss.

This ridge a classic climb on the base camp area it goes at 5.8 60 degree snow. We climb it in snowy conditions so fell little harder. 

Here Vince start us with a great mixed climbing form the get go. Snowy slab made this pitch a great one to climb.

We climb all the ridge and just about 500m from the top on the easy but steep snow slope, snow stability force us to turn around. I guess it wasn't mean to be to summit for us.

2 more weather days force us to stay put in camp once it clear up it was time for us to go climb the North Buttress. unfortunately we just had a day to climb before they had to fly back, so we decided to climb as high as we could check out some of the route and rappel down once the temps really get cool.

Off we go. Vince start leading the first 5 pitches. The biggening of the route was pretty cool a very tricky to cross bergchrund start our day. After that the ice climbing was super fun. we gain altitude quickly and exposure was incredible.  

5 pitches later it was me time to lead my block. The climbing start on a very interesting note with a  little section of funky steep ice with weird protection.

Really cool ice climb for 5 pitches and my block was over. Vince took over and it was time for him lead the crux pitch the PROW. 

A great photo of the crux pitch on a pretty good conditions. Usually this pitch is an Aid climb but this season it is enough ice where we where able to free climb.  

Vince got to lead this awesome pitch and mark and I both follow it. Hands down one of the best mixed pitches that I climb in the mountains.  

Mark here following the pitch. He send this section no problem. 

Once we finish this pitch, it was time for us to start heading down. I will be coming next season to climb this route. We had great time climbing together. Here Mark, Vince and Myself. 

After Vince and Mark left, I team up with a friend of mine from Slovenia to go climbing the mini moon flower. This route is a super Alaska classic.

We simul solo the bottom part of the route. pretty fun climbing!!!!

Spin drift got little much and then we decided to start pitching it out in blocks of 3 pitches at the time.

The crux pitch of the route was mid way up very cool delicate climbing on steep terrain mad this pitch one of kind.

7 more pitches of ice climbing puts on the summit ridge, that took us straight to the top.   

Shoot from the top of the route.!!!!!

  Over all a great experience with a great climbing partner. We climb a total of 15 pitches of alpine ice.
Would do this route again in a heart bit.


 NOTE: the rest of the trip report is coming soon ........ Have to life for a few days.

      

ICE CLIMBING WITH CHAD JUKES

After climbing with all the boys and girls from paradox, I got the opportunity to help on a photo shot that my friend Chad Jukes who is one of the faces of paradox sports and who is a great ice climber had set up.
We climb a route on the upper bridge at the ice park.

Here are some of the photos from that session:

2012 WINTER RECAP !!!!

This past winter was one of the most awesome ones.  Tons of climbing lots of work great times with friends and even and injury made this past winter an unforgettable one.

Early on Nov while climbing at the cave above Ouray, I strain my MCL on my right knee. this injury put me on bed and without be bale to do much for the rest of Dec.  For a few days I thought that I had to have surgery and pretty much my winter and spring will be over in terms of climbing and work. with lots of good energy, rest, massages and physical therapy my knee recover 80% just in time for the ice fest. Where I had the best result so far I was one of the only 2 climbers to top the route. Pretty much a dream come through.  Just a week before that with my knee felling little funny and wearing a huge knee I got to send one of the hardest mixed routes that I have done. Cinnamon and cider M11 +, after the ice fest with my recovery still on schedule and having to wear the knee brace I did the FFA of  Brian's Gilmore new route and one of the hardest ones in the ice park. Lochness Monster M9+++ OR M10-. Either way that route was super low percentage with very scary stain pulls, on top of that and about a week later I repeat Bipolar M9+  and then, I place 4 at the Winter Teva Games. I finish my great season guiding the Bird Brain Blvd in very thing conditions and last but not least I was part of the Paradox Sports Ice program. Looking back I'm so psyched they way all paid out  I like to believe that things happen for a reason and that injury taught me lots.

Thanks to all who where part of the great 2012 winter.

Some of the press from this Winter include:
Photo on the 37 Alpinist issue
Alpinist news wire
Rock and Ice news wire (twice)
Daily planet news paper (twice)
Vail CO news paper (twice)
Rock and Ice Annual photo issue
New York Times news wire
New York Times Video

           

WEEKEND WITH PARADOX SPORTS

Last month I had the opportunity to be part of the Paradox Sports weekend that took place as every year in Ouray. We had the chance to climb all weekend long. Climbers with out legs, arms and even on wheelchair climb all day long. It was a total honor for me to be part of of that great event and be able to help as much as I could. They are a total inspiration for me. It helps me to remember that even when I have bad days I do have 100% great health, all my fingers, toes, arms and legs.
The energy of the weekend was awesome talking about good actitude, they have the best !!!!!



As an example here it is Sean O'neill sending some steep ice. We had he chance to work on a system for him to use for ice climbing.  

   

Saun having great times swinging away!!!!!!!!! 

All the crew and it fearless leader Malcom Daly.

Thank you Paradox Sports for letting me climb with you all. Totally looking forward for next year!!!  

TEVA GAMES

The first winter Teva games were a total success.

Many different mountain sports, including climbing, were part of the awesome and fun weekend that took place in Vail, Colorado.

The mixed competition structure that they made was like the ones that I have climbed on in the Ice World Cup in Europe.

Basically, it was two routes that mirror image each other and two competitors climbed head to head as fast as they can. Once at the top, they were lowered down to rest for 3 minutes, then switched sides and went again. The way the competition worked, was a single elimination format, pretty much if you lose against the other competitor you are out. If you win, you get to go to the next round and do it all again.

Because of the set up, unfortunately, there was not any ice on the structure. Instead, they put this new foam that you can swing into, like as if it was ice. It was pretty interesting, because nobody, not even the people who made it, knew how it would work.

Before hand we all met to talk about rules and how this whole thing is going to work.

Then it was time for the comp!!!!!

There was a total of 20 competitors, 17 men and only 3 women.

Because of the numbers, men and woman were in the same group.

The competition started, it was such a cool and fun format.

I got to go the second round after winning in the first.

Only 10 competitors got to move to the next round.

Next round went by and only 6 of us advanced. Once again refuel and get ready for the next round. the Competition is getting harder and harder. The next round would be the one that would determine who will go to the finals.

By this point we all knew the route pretty well and the time is getting faster and faster.

The round was super fast and we all climbed great. Now there was only 4 of us to go to the final. At this point the night was falling with the snow that was increasing. More and more people were gathering to see the finals. The energy was awesome. Time to climb again, this round determined 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th places.

I got to go against Stanislav a 6 foot 3 inch Eastern European cardio machine. Our competition was pretty tight, but in the end only one of us climbed faster and it was him. After climbing the route 10 times a full speed I was pretty tired and glad that it was over.

Final Results:

1. Sam Elias

2. Stanislav

3. Brian Gilmore

4. Andres Marin

5. Marcus Garcia

For the girls, the judges decided to have a final between them even though they all had gotten eliminated in the first round. It was between Emily Harrington and Dawn Glanc.

Unfortunately, neither of them where able to finish the route either time, which was a little disappointing Emily fell lower than Dawn which give her a pretty easy first place. Hopefully, next year more woman can be at this event.

In the end it was such a great times. Climbing as fast as you can competing against friends and have good all times.

Totally looking forward next year.

This is how the structure looked like.

Pretty steep in the end of the route. The round things where the foam holds.

OURAY ICE FESTIVAL PHOTOS

Here are some shoots of the Ice Fest.

This is one of my favorite shoot here myself, Annie and our friend Simon on the last day of the Ice Fest.

Lots of people are getting ready for the Petzl party !!! Lots of cool energy on Saturday.

I start my day warming up with y good friends Brian Gilmore and Simon.

After some laps it was time for me to give a go to the comp route. The bottom little insecure but pretty easy climbing.

After some easy section the ice bridge was next. Get psyched breath deep and start getting serious with the figure 4 and 9 business.

Long move to get stablish on the bridge and sending time!!!!

The sequence to cross the ice bridge was incredible. This was the first time that the competition route goes from side of the canyon to the other. Incredible movement!!

Right after making the cross over in the West side of the canyon the sequence start with a sporty head points to good holds.

Here I'm reaching big for the second long move at the upper wall,

The middle of the upper wall was pretty fun with lots of long moves and hard climbing the last crux move was coming before start swing at the ice.

Just a few moves on the ice before make it to the top, In terms of energy I was felling pretty good with lots more fuel in the thank.

Be able to top out in competitions it is a great felling. Especially when only 2 of us where the only ones!!!

Spending sometime with the press feel's always funny.

Ceremony night !!!! Good times with some friends and some good $$$ for placing 2.
Many thanks for all the friends and family for been there for me totally awesome times.

2012 OURAY ICE FESTIVAL RECAP

The 2012 Ouray Ice Festival it was a total blast.

This festival it is my favorite, I can see friends that I haven't seen in a while, teach clinics for some of my sponsors and do the mixed climbing competition.

The festival opening was on Thursday starting with two slide shows, one given by my room mate Dawn Glanc and the other was given by myself about the last expedition that I did in Kyrgyzstan. The theater was full and we all had great time.

Friday, I woke up early to teach some clinics. A half day on beginner ice for Petzl, and the rest of the day I had the chance to hang out to talk with some friends and rest for the competition.

At 4 pm all the competitors had to go to a meeting to talk about starting time and route details. We all were informed that one of the competitors was caught scoping the route with a high power lens and he got disqualified. The rules were super clear in terms of not looking at the route with any extra eyes. In fact, it has been like that for the past 10 years.

After the meeting we all had our jerseis and starting numbers. Mine was 7 and I was pretty happy with the number not too early not too late. It was time to head back home and get some rest.

Morning came fast, and it was time for the competition. The morning was beautiful and pretty warm too. I teamed up with my good friend Brian Gilmore to warm up, also our recent friend Simone, from France, joined us. Simone, an extremly strong young climber, who I had the chance to climb with for two weeks prior to the event, was a huge inspiration for us. His fitness level is incredible.

After couple of pitches for warm up, it was time to get ready. While I was putting my boots on, I saw that one of the competitors got to the top!!!!!! At that point, the bar was raised. Anybody with the aspiration of making it to the podium pretty much needed to make it all the way to the top.

Finally, it was my turn!!!!

Close my eyes took a deep breath visualize myself climbing all the way. The judges gave me the one minute left to check out the route, then, three, two, one! Climbing!

The first part of the climb was pretty intense since the rock is smooth at the bottom of the canyon, and the feeling of falling down early is always there. After that section, it was time for the first crux the Ice bridge!!!!! The route traversed across an ice loaf,from one side of the gorge to the other side. It looked hard, my commitment level was super high. The sequence started with figure 4 and 9 and 4 and 9, after some more crazy moves, there I was on the other side of the canyon.

At that point it was time for the final and last crux section of the route, the head wall. I was totally focused on my breathing and each movement that I was doing, with pure intention. Rest breath, BIG move, clip. Do that same sequence again. It is kind of a surreal experience, and I start realizing that I'm getting higher and higher on the route to the point that I'm swinging into the ice near the top. A couple minutes later I'm standing on the top of the canyon and a couple hundred people cheering with me on. What a cool felling!!!!!

Now, it was time to wait for everyone else to go and see the results. The rest of the competitors went and nobody else topped out the route. Looking at the results, I ended in second place after the canadian guy climbed the route 6 seconds faster than me!!!!!! Great job Nathan Kusher, an unknown climber who showed how it is done.

People ask me if I'm bummed to lose just for 6 seconds? To be honest my answer is NO NOT at ALL. Getting to the top for me was a personal goal regardless in which place I end up. Plus, I had a knee injury about month and half ago where I wasn't sure if I'm gone be able to climb for the rest of the winter, so I'm more than happy with how I climbed

I want to thank to Brian Gilmore, French Simone, Will Mayo, Sam Elias for all the inspiration. Competitions are 70% luck 30% fitness. It is extremely difficult to predict what is going to happen and this year Nathan and I got that 70%.

After the comp it was time to celebrate like a rock start with some great friends!!!!!!!

Next and last day of the Fest was very the snow finally show up I did one more clinic and the most especial moment of the weekend happen when a bunch of friends got together to celebrate Alison and Bean lives with some histories and good moments.

I want to thank to everybody who make this great event happen and I'm looking forward to be able to part of it for awhile.